Secret Cemetery, Crazy Water Crossings, and An Old Abandoned Car: SNP – Elkwallow Area Loop

Elkwallow Picnic Area, finally…after two hours in the car!  Sidekick Pauli was whining to get on the trail, I was waiting for two backpackers to finish with the privy.  Ahhh…finally.

On the trail at 11:07am…wow, it was windy! I stopped to check I had everything I wanted at 11:10.  🙂  I always feel like I am forgetting something.

Always nice when the trail head has a privy!

Always nice when the trail head has a privy!

We cut around the back of Elkwallow Wayside where there is a little store, gas and bathrooms during the main season. Today, however, nothing was open.  Turning right onto the AT, we crossed Skyline Drive and began our first climb of the day ascending 500 feet up to the Piney Ridge trail.  As I drove to the trail head this morning, the thermometer in my car kept rising and falling as I wound my way down Skyline Drive.  When it showed 39 degrees, I worried I hadn’t brought enough layers.  Well, as I plodded up that first hill my fears were put to rest! Plenty warm with that sun out…and the occasional gusts of wind became a welcome occurrence.

Turn off for the Piney Ridge trail.

Turn off for the Piney Ridge trail.

At the turn off for the Piney Ridge trail is a another trail (looks like a driveway in the picture above) that goes to the PATC Range View cabin.  This would be an excellent place to stay as there are many good loops you could hike in this area! Made a note since I am a PATC member!

The Piney Ridge had some areas of Pines, but was mainly a woodland trail.  I was able to get a view of the surrounding mountains through the trees which was a nice bonus to being on the trail so early in the Spring! Spring, I can finally taste it!!! 🙂 🙂

The Piney Ridge trail drops, rounds a mountain, then meets up with the Fork Mountain trail.  Along the way down, I happened to glance to my right and saw something odd sticking up…I went to investigate and found a little secret cemetery! What a beautiful spot.  I murmured many a “I’m sorry” as I stepped on graves, over graves and around graves to read the tombstones left intact.  I don’t know why I feel a need to talk to tombstones, but I do…who knows…maybe the spirits are still around and I would rather be on good terms!  When I left, I said “Thanks for welcoming me, I enjoyed this place” and felt an immediate warmth fill me.

Back on the trail I felt I was no longer alone.  Just before the Hull School trail there was a big old tree.  As I approached, on this very windy day, I asked the tree to hold on to all of its branches while I passed beneath it on the trail.  It was gracious enough to grant me my wish.  Another hundred yards up the trail I heard a massive thud behind me…the tree could hold no longer…a huge branch lay across the trail where I had just walked.  Thank you spirits of the mountain!

I love visiting old cemeteries!

I love visiting old cemeteries!

A quick break was welcomed at the intersection of the Hull School trail.  We had descended 1000 feet since stepping off the AT.  Reading the cement trail marker I saw we had only 0.8 miles to go before getting to the Thornton River trail where we would begin to ascend back to Skyline Drive.

Approaching the intersection of the Hull School Trail.  Dead center is Fork Mountain!

Approaching the intersection of the Hull School Trail. Dead center is Fork Mountain!

A right on Thornton River trail…I was already thinking about the river crossings…you know what I forgot? River crossing shoes…way to be prepared…ergh.  The first crossing was just not possible.  It was deep, it was fast and all the regular stepping stones were covered with rushing, whitecapped water!  So I bushwhacked upstream and found a place where a bunch of downed branches and logs had formed a dam.  It looked pretty sturdy…so I tucked Sidekick Pauli’s leash into her harness and said “Let’s go!”  I have NEVER been more reliant on my dog to do the right thing…she was a ROCKSTAR!!!  As I climbed up precariously, I could see her picking her way up onto the dam of branches, then walking across one of the larger logs with amazing balance and dexterity to reach the other side.  She then walked down to where I was crossing and waited for me to make it across.  I love this dog, the best!!! 🙂 🙂 🙂

So on up the trail we went…BOOM! Another crossing already???  This one wasn’t as bad, but all the stepping stones were still covered with water.  So I stopped and looked for a better place to cross…found one, then slipped, and the water rose to mid calf…so much for not getting the boots wet!  The cold water felt good on my aching feet, so what the heck, I stood there in the middle of the river for a brief moment before climbing out on the other side.  Then it was slosh, slosh, slosh up the trail.  The next two crossings were uneventful and then the river became a stream, became a trickle and then was all the sudden gone altogether! Ahhh, Spring in the mountains. 🙂

Once reaching Skyline Drive I had planned to access the AT again and follow it back to Elkwallow.  I had wet boots and my legs were tired from the extra bushwhacking!  Taking the AT would have meant another 2.5 miles to my car. After 8.5 – 9 miles …UMMM…I don’t think so!!!

When I saw the AT access was almost another 1/2 mile in the opposite direction...I literally said HELL.NO. and road walked  back to the car!

When I saw the AT access was almost another 1/2 mile in the opposite direction…I literally said HELL.NO. and road walked back to the car!

So I turned to the right, slowing making my way down Skyline Drive and back to Elkwallow with my super dog, Sidekick Pauli, at my side…

Hike on!

AT – VA US522 Chester Gap to Jim&Molly Denton Shelter (and back)

Cabin fever, the very quickly approaching Spring semester, and a goal to hike half of the AT through Maryland in one day this summer had me flying down 340 headed for Front Royal, Virginia and the trail head at US522.

I left my house in the dark, hoping to step on the trail at sunrise…I was using this hike to set a baseline for training for my “Half MD” goal this summer.  The shorter winter days meant it might be starting to get dark at 4 PM.  Since I was hiking alone I really didn’t care to be hiking back to my car in the dark!

As it turned out I started hiking at 8 AM.  It was already past dawn, but it was still not completely light outside.  I love to be in the woods in the early morning.  Everything is so quiet, then the birds wake up and chatter at you up and down the trail.

Stepping on the trail just after dawn.

Stepping on the trail just after dawn.

The trail up the mountain sidled up against the National Zoological Park Conservation and Research Center.  Once at the top, the trail pulls away from the Park and cruises nicely along the edge of the mountain before descending to cross a gravel road that headed up into a neighborhood of mountain houses, some of which were quite large!

Stream crossing! Luckily the ice had melted on the rocks...although I did have my spikes in tow!

Not a great pic…but a stream crossing! Luckily the ice had melted on the rocks…although I did have my spikes in tow!

The elevation map made the climb look daunting with a climb of 1000 feet in the first two miles, but it didn’t really seem to register with me on this early morning.  What I did think about, on my way up, was how this morning felt like freedom.  It really did. It had all the promise of the first warm day of spring…adventure without a time limit!  I was just out for a walk, just to see how far I could go.  I was loving it!

Winter view south back to Shenandoah National Park.

Winter view south back to Shenandoah National Park.

After the road crossing, I found a nice log to sit on and take a break.  The temps were rising, but the sun had yet to make to this side of the mountain.  My log seat was quickly freezing my back side, so a quick break it was! Headed on to the shelter for a longer break!

Lunch at the shelter had revived me! It was now 11:45am and I had a choice to make…walk another mile down hill to VA638 or turn around now and walk the 5 miles back to my car.  One more mile downhill would have meant one more mile uphill and a total mileage of 12 miles for today…I was so close to doing it!  But I decided to turn south after leaving the shelter …towards my car…shoot for the 10 miles …take time to enjoy the walk!

Walking back through the snowy woods.

Walking back through the snowy woods.

I had forgotten how good it feels to hike alone.  This hike just left me with such a great feeling of … jees, I cannot describe it…just an amazing amount of control over my life and a great sense of freedom!  Loved it!

Hike on…sometimes with others and sometimes by yourself…hike on!

Kick off the New Year! Annapolis Rocks & Hot Chocolate in the Shelter

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Nothing like a brisk hike in freezing temps to kick off the New Year! I had ulterior motives for this hike…I wanted to try out my new Esbit stove…but I will get to that later. So off we go!  A balmy 25 degrees as I sat and shivered waiting for my car to heat up. […]

PATC Wilderness First Aid Weekend…Rain, Guys and Gore!

Wilderness First Aid?  Should I do this? Do I need this?

The contemplation of taking this class initially worried me a little bit…what if I was trying to help someone and I hurt them instead?  When it comes to blood and guts I am not squeamish, in fact my curiosity takes over and I actually like it…not that I want anyone to be in that state…but if I came upon someone that had, say, major wounds I am okay with dealing with it in a calm manner.  So if a counselor is needed, I feel I could talk down a patient and keep them calm…BUT…my confidence for being able to actually HELP medically …um…um…well, I could assist them in dying with dignity.

Recognizing this shortcoming in myself meant I needed to do something about it.  So should I do this?  Yes.  Biting my bottom lip and furrowing my brow, I completed the online registration and clicked “Submit”.  Submit, yes, submitting. Submitting to the unknown, the scary, the idea that now I would be truly responsible for helping in a medical emergency out on the trail.  I submitted.

And I DO need this!  I am a hike leader for the Trail Dames of Maryland with basic first aid and CPR.  I need more training.  My desire to keep the Dames safe supersedes my fear that I could do something wrong.

Well, there it is.  I felt like I would do it wrong.  It is that fear that has kept me from so many things.  I have to overcome the fear of failure in order to do every single little thing in my life.  I stayed out of college for far too long because I was afraid to fail (I didn’t), in a partnership with someone for far to long because I feared I couldn’t do it on my own (I was wrong) AND feared I would screw up my kids life (nope, he is awesome)…and here I was again, facing down the fear of failure.  But I did it!! Yay! 🙂 🙂

So off I went Saturday morning to the Emergency Response Training Center.  It was raining. It was cold.  oh joy.  I dressed in layers and rain gear taking my orange Osprey day pack filled with goodies for the day.  I got there with no problem and found coffee cake and coffee! Nice welcome!  Saleena and Dave DeVore, our fearless leaders for the day, welcomed all of us and after initial introductions started instruction. But let me just stop here to say that I WAS THE ONLY FEMALE!!!

Why do I need to say that? Because it matters to me and that is reason enough.  I didn’t mind too much…but felt that at least on one of the training activities I was singled out to be a scout because the designated “leader” didn’t think me capable of carrying the litter.  Saleena turned to me and said “They always do that, they always single out the women.”  I told her that it pissed me off until I saw they had to carry the litter (with patient) down a steep, muddy, slippery hill complete with obstacle they had to go under with patient and litter.  Yeah, go to it guys…knock yourselves out…and you know what? I am secretly hash tagging you, leader guy. 😉

The first day of training ended with a first aid kit shake down that was pretty funny and emasculating!  Very informative and I learned a great deal from Saleena about what is “really” needed and what can be left at home.  Bottom line…my kit needed a little bolstering. Especially for a hike leader!  I added a SAM splint and an emergency blanket with plans on adding better width ace bandage and a variety of other little updates.

The funniest item to add to the kit came on day two when we discussed bleeding.  Saleena asked us what we could use out of our packs to use as a dressing.  Typical answers like bandanas, socks and cotton shirts were thrown out.  Then Saleena whips out a post partum maternity pad out of her kit…oh, the looks on a few of the guys faces!!!!! Too funny, and WHAT A GREAT IDEA!!!

The second day ended with a culminating activity to reinforce what we had learned during the previous 48 hours.  Three victims were placed in the woods along the trail.  They had a variety of life threatening injuries as they had been “attacked by a bear”.  My patient had been impaled by a stick (through the stomach), and the bear had taken a chunk out of her arm and shoulder.  Just for kicks they threw in that she was diabetic.  It was tough to think under pressure and not get caught up in the most obvious injury!  Afterward, we had a breakout session to discuss what went right and what could have gone better.  It was a great experience!

I come away feeling more confident for sure and would recommend everyone who hikes to get this training!

My next step is to peruse YouTube to learn more and to practice!! In addition, I am planning to act as a victim for upcoming WFA trainings because I think there is a lot to learn in that role as well…and being covered in blood and guts…how fun!

Hike On!

AT – VA Compton Gap to US 522 with the Trail Dames

I will remember this day as hiking through the sky with Dames, then descending into the valley with Angels.

Before all of this, however, was donuts.  Tenacious D was driving and I had hitched a ride to the trail head since my car is no longer to be trusted on long trips.  I felt very grateful to have a ride down to Virginia for this section hike and stopped at Dunkin Donuts on my way to meet Tenacious D for coffee and donuts as a token of appreciation for the ride.

Wow, it was raining. and cold. and windy.  Glad I put gloves and hat in the back pack before I left!

We were the last to arrive at the trail head…Tenacious D says being a bus driver for so many years makes her just drive slow all the time!  I didn’t mind, we weren’t more than 3 – 4 minutes late, and the drive had been lovely.  We pulled over and rolled down the window as Dirigo (the hike leader today) approached. She asked “Can you all help shuttle?” “Sure!”  Another Dame jumped in and away we went up into Shenandoah National Park.

We met up with everyone at Compton Gap trail head, about 10 miles into the park.  Donning our layers, rain jackets, hats, gloves, and grabbing our hiking poles we set off into the foggy woods.  Pretty easy walking, although it began to rain making me wish I hadn’t left my big red poncho back in my car before riding down with Tenacious D.  Oh well, my rain jacket, plus layers did a fine job anyway!

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Tenacious D enjoying the trail!

The forest was magical with the heavy fog.  Lines between heaven and earth were smudged giving everything a soft ethereal glow.  It felt like we were part of the sky.  Then my eye would catch a tree with its brilliantly colored leaves in the forest reminding me that the sky had descended on the mountain, we had not risen to the sky.

We reached Possum’s Rest, which on a clear day has a beautiful view, without much trouble.  Today, all one could see was the fog.  Coming down from Possum’s Rest was a little tricky!  We were climbing down from the ridge and it was a sharp decline, even with the switchbacks, littered with wet leaves and rocks.  It was slow going…but no one fell, no one slipped!

Just before reaching the Tom Floyd Wayside, we heard barking.  Lake Front Royal is a neighborhood which backs up to the AT, so the dog was probably over there.  Happy to get out of the rain we sat down for lunch at the shelter.  A PB&J and half a bag of cheezits later I was feeling quite content.  I stretched out my legs and sat there looking out into the mist.

Tom Floyd Wayside

Tom Floyd Wayside

There is was…that barking again…louder this time.  We discussed where the dog could be, then brushed it aside as we packed up and left the shelter.  Headed downhill, then all of the sudden there it was, a small older beagle, lost, cold, wet, shivering, and very scared.  She came right up to me.  It was clear she needed help.  At first we got her to follow us, but soon realized she needed to be carried as her paws were rubbed raw.  I carried her for awhile,

then Python cleared out her backpack and together we fit her inside.  She loved that! So cozy!  And that is how Python packed her out.  As we continued towards Rt. 522 we passed directly by a few houses in Lake Front Royal.  Python asked a guy out on his deck if he knew anyone who had lost a beagle.  He didn’t but turned to get his wife.  Turns out the wife works in a vet clinic and offered to take the dog so they could follow up on the license number and scan for a microchip.

So you see, the Dames had become Angels arriving at just the right time and place for this lucky little pup.  I am ever so happy she spent the night inside, safe and warm.

A Journey Taken

A Journey Taken

Hike on.

A Round Trip Ticket from Catoctin Furnace to Bob’s Hill Overlook

This has been an amazing Autumn day.  It started with bright sun and temps in the sixties…a perfect day to climb Bob’s Hill in Cunningham Falls State Park.  This was my first time up to Bob’s Hill, although I am familiar with the area having climbed to Cat Rock, Chimney Rocks, and other high points in the Catoctin range.

Filling the bladder with water and tucking a couple of sandwiches, in addition to some cheese for Sidekick Pauli, into the pack, I realized it would not be so easy to slip out of the house with only one dog in tow!  Little Caesar helped me placate the other canines with a plan that had us walking all three dogs around the block, then quickly leading two, who were not going, back into the house, while Sidekick Pauli got into the back of the car! It worked!

If you are headed to Bob’s Hill, then I would suggest parking at Catoctin Furnace.  It is free to park at the furnace, and it is a pretty interesting site to look around.  The Ironmaster’s house, which is in ruins, is well worth a look see.

The Ironmaster's house ruins

The Ironmaster’s house ruins

Head up the short hill from the parking lot to pick up the trail that will lead to the Manor area of Cunningham Falls State Park.  This is a short trail, about 1/4 mile, but has some interesting features such at the Bowstring Arch bridge.  This beautiful, historic bridge takes you across Little Hunting Creek as you head toward the elevated bridge crossing Route 15 (pretty much a super highway!).

There are several hiking trails in the Cunningham Falls SP/Catoctin Mountain Park area. A great map of the trails is provided by the National Park Service.

Once across Route 15, Sidekick Pauli and I took a little break at the creek.  The sun was breaking through golden leaves making the water sparkle as it spilled over the rocks.  Sidekick Pauli couldn’t resist stepping into the cool stream as she bent to take a drink.  After trying the water in several spots, finding them all absolutely delightful, she turned to me with a big smile on her face!  Ready to go, Papa? Oh yes, ready to go!

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We walked along the creek looking for the blue blazes that mark the Catoctin Trail.  We found it without too much difficulty and headed to the right and up the hill.  I was surprised and pleased to find that I did not need to stop to catch my breath on the way up to Bob’s Hill overlook.  A few times I stopped briefly to take in the fall splendor and listen to the wind as it roared up from the valley.  The wind was ferocious at times, pushing the trees aside allowing me a glimpse of crystal blue sky.  Ahhhhh!

All the way up to the overlook we were alone! It was wonderful!

We checked out the overlook to the right first.  Then we backtracked and headed to the overlook on the other side.  I don’t know which I liked better!  We sat down to eat our snack at the second overlook.

It was one of those moments that you want to stay in forever.  The gusting wind caused several leaves to let loose and fly.  The sunlight made the color of the leaves sparkle as they were carried by the wind off the mountain and down into the hollow.  I felt all at once like I was part of the mountain.  I let the wind push against me and instead of turning away from it, I looked up into it, feeling it make my eyes tear up and sting my cheeks.  I took a deep breath as it blew, the freshness of it filling me up.  I did a sideways glance to check on Pauli and found she too had her nose turned up to greet the wind!  It was just one of those moments.

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Leaving the overlook several minutes later we continued toward Cat Rock.  I had no plans to visit Cat Rock today, but I wasn’t ready to turn around and head back to the car yet.  Plus, we were now on the ridge which was easy walking!

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Easy walking means I was able to just let my thoughts wander.  I thought about life, work, hiking, dogs, cats, … then something popped into my head that made me pause.  A woman said to me the other day that she wasn’t a strong hiker because she was so slow.  It bothered me.  It bothered me because strong is not the same as fast.  I consider myself a strong hiker, but I hike at a steady 2 mph pace in the mountains.  I have been hiking for a long time, have confidence in my abilities, and know when I should challenge myself and when I should turn back.  But I am not fast.

I thought about this because I was thinking this hike up Bob’s Hill is a moderate hike.  I think anyone could do it.  When I say anyone could do it, I mean, anyone could do it in a time that is right for them.

I want to yell passionately at that woman to stop berating herself.  I wanted to tell her, “If you run out of breath…stop and breathe! Look around the woods; enjoy the moment!  Take your time and love that you are on the mountain! This is your life!”

Hike on!!!!

Trip to REI…and Stumbled Upon Centennial Park

We, as in LIttle Caesar and I, headed east to Columbia, Maryland to 1) return my hiking boots – yes, I am still in the middle of boot drama – and 2) Little Caesar wanted socks. And you know…to look at stuff, any stuff, camping stuff, backpacking stuff, and yes, hiking boots (or shoes)!

No drama with the return, REI is always awesome with that kind of thing.  So I headed on back to the shoe department.  Ah, a well worn path for me.  The anticipation of finding that “perfect” pair of hiking shoes.  The ones that will make my plantar fasciitis seem like a bad dream from the past.  There has to be a pair of shoes that will cushion my left foot so it doesn’t take vengeance on me everytime I hike more than 2 miles!  Entering the shoe department, I cautiously approach the women’s rack and focus in on reading all the same names of boots I have looked at before.  A salesman approaches, this is the same saleman that sold me my Merrills. The Merrils,which got me through 55 miles in rocky PA in 5 days without too much pain, have been pretty good boots.  My main complaint is that I have to wear liners + flex ankle brace + thick hiking socks to so the leather around my ankle doesn’t slip.  Otherwise fine.

Well, the salesman heard the words “plantar fasciitis” and “backpacking” and told me the Merrills I had were awful shoes and what I really needed was a rigid hiking boot for my ankles.  Um, hey dumbass, I respect your opinion, BUT I have hiked a lot of miles and pretty much have done the research that now says that the rigid hiking boot does not help your ankles, and could possibly create an injury due to the rigidity of the boot.  He was not listening to me anymore, but lecturing me.  Ok, done.  I will go back on another day or to another REI!!

Little Caesar was done shopping for socks at this point, so we made the purchase and left.  Heading home we stopped for coffee, then promptly got lost in this really cool neighborhood with awesome mid-century houses.  Had to check my Google map app to figure out where we were…and found a big blue spot on the map.  “Let’s go check this out!” I exclaimed.  and Little Caesar, who is very supportive of an impulsive adventure turned in the direction of the big blue spot.

This turned out to be Centennial Park in Ellicott City, Maryland.  It is not a huge park, but incredibly beautiful.  We sat by the lake drinking our coffee in the Autumn splendor that surrounded us.  There was evidence of past summer fun here with the canoes, kayaks, and paddle boats stacked up for the season. The sun was out and I was suddenly way too warm to sit out by the lake anymore so we headed up on to the paved path that circles the lake.

The day had started pretty chilly in Frederick, so we had on sweaters.  Not the best choice, but there was a breeze so when we entered the shady woods I was comfortable again! The loop around the lake is 2.4 miles long.  A very pleasant stroll and with the foliage starting to turn for fall, it was breathtaking.  Easy for families as was evident on the day we were there.  Many people take advantage of the park it seems, so if you are looking for solitude then visit during the week when everyone else is at work!

Hike on!

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Balls Bluff Battlefield Regional Park: Leesburg, Virginia

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Do you know what it feels like to walk down a trail and not know what is around the next bend?  Many of the trails I walk are well worn paths that I have walked routinely for years…so there is nothing that sparks my curiosity like a new trail to explore! Virginia has recently created or […]

Bogs, Fungi and A Really Pretty Pond at Cedarville State Forest 8/30/2014

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I headed down to Brandywine, Maryland this weekend to scout a hike for the Trail Dames (of Maryland) at Cedarville State Forest.  My sister, two of her daughters and I came down to explore this park a few months ago but only saw a few miles of trail before the skies opened up and we got […]

AT – PA Pole Steeple to Pine Grove Furnace SP (Loop Hike) July 2014

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So here I was in the midst of teaching Calculus for the first time and while I was delighted in that assignment…the task of preparing lessons was sucking my summer right down the drain.  I felt unbalanced, like a stool that is missing a leg.  But then, finally, a day arrived that I could truly […]